There was no excitement at North Shore today. The pros weren’t bombing and the babes weren’t watching. The wind was blowing and the sky was falling.
With an encroaching swell, the aina decides to keeps us patiently waiting. It isn’t for anyone to say when we can paddle out and embrace it’s majesty.
But there’s always something to see. If you have enough patience, you can watch as the swell rolls in under a beach umbrella with a beer in your hand- maybe enough to encourage you to get your head wet.
There isn’t anything spectacular to see. You can’t even mind-surf the crumbly mountains of water if you tried but you’ll still make an attempt. There were a few gnarly souls to remind you that you’ll be better off sitting under that umbrella drinking your cheap beer.
Maybe you should just wait till tomorrow. The sun will shine and the winds will shift direction making for more suitable surfing conditions. For tonight, we wait, we hope and we dream.